I call it a complex because set next to each others are numerous point of interests: first the giant San-Mon at the entrance, nanzenji temple and a couple of little shrines.
I first climbed to the top floor of San-Mon, gigantic and from the top, I got a nice view of the complex and Kyoto.
I entered a random shrine and was treated to a lovely garden and old buildings.
Then I followed an aqueduct, first south, which lead to nothing but it was a pleasant walk; then north it lead to a lovely small temple.
Then I tried to find a shrine recommended by my guide. Don't do it, basically you climb up the mountain for ages then arrive to a small shrine, not particularly interesting. I found a girl who was browsing her guide and asked her if it was the same as mine. Yes! And yes, where we were in what was described as a don't miss. Well I say miss it, except if you want an excuse to take a steep stroll through the mountain.
Starting to feel grumpy...
I entered nanzenji temple itself and saw my first dry Japanese garden, what I usually called a zen garden: white rocks representing the sea and bigger rocks with plants and bonsai. Was an amazing experience, just looking at the movements left in the rocks, you get a sense of peacefulness. The temple and its ground were really beautiful.
Starting to feel like I was overdosing on Japanese esthetics I looked for a place to sit down and have lunch without luck. As I passed Eikan-do temple, I thought why not. Famous for its statue turning her head, apparently super rare, it has a garden and numerous little shrines scattered in the mountain, all linked by wooden passageways. I wasn't in a good frame of mind while I visited so didn't really enjoy it. And climbing steep stairs to a pagoda (seen here up the mountain), which was closed didn't help lighten my mood. Grumble.
I decided it was time to sit down, like NOW so entered the first coffee place I found. Luckily I ended in a nice place, ran by an old couple. One of their usual customer, an old granny, came in, even if she wasn't hungry she was convinced to eat a cake and spent the next 30mn gossiping about Sato-san and its family. Ah ah ah... Feeling refreshed and in a bright mood I headed up to the philosopher's path, a quiet lane with follows a little stream. The actual path is closed until March to help the plants grow back but it didn't spoil anything, as while walking I could still see the stream and its calming effect. Quiet, lots of shops selling craft and cafes. Very nice and peaceful.
Mid-way in the path I went up the mountain again to reach Honen-in, a lovely temple in the forest, surrounded by the smell of fresh moss and trees. Loved it.
Then at the end of the path was Ginkakuji temple (silver pavilion). It's one of the main attraction in Kyoto so it was packed but was well worth it. Anywhere I looked it was beautiful: buildings, moss, rock, zen garden, cascade, everything is meticulously arranged. Was very difficult not to take a photo everything minute and just enjoy the moment.
After a sweet stop at one of the numerous stalls lining the street leading to the temple, I wandered in streets, my internal compass set south west, to Heian shrine. I was expecting another shrine so was surprised when, instead, I entered a beautiful garden. Peaceful, sun setting, only noise coming from water...Beautiful.
so now I'm watching TV and in the news, one of the topic covered for a good 5mn was how a vending machine was degraded by someone using the plant pot of the guy next door...I've also been watching this program about teeth-horror stories. So this the woman before....scary.... (to see the renovated one see tomorrow's blog)
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