Kyoto - day 2 (South Higashiyama)

After a good night sleep, I woke up ready for my second day in Kyoto. After grabbing a juice and sweet stuff for breakfast, I made my way east to Sanjusangen-do temple. Initially built in 1164 it was rebuilt in 1249 after a fire burnt it down. The name (sanjusan) refers to the 33 bays between the pillars of this long building. It houses one large Kannon on its centre, flanked on each side by 500-armed smaller Kannon statues. All the statues are neatly lined and at the front there are an extra 28 guardian statues. It was pretty impressive sight and the length of the building used to host an annual archery competition, during which archers shoot arrows the length of the hall. Some competition even saw an archer shooting arrows for 24hrs! Even though the original competition ended at the Edo period, nowadays there is a similar competition.

I then headed towards the north to the complex of temples called Kiyomizudera. This was packed with people, strolling around the various halls and shrines. As it stands at the top of a hill the view of Kyoto was amazing. The most popular shrines (for teenagers and young couples) seem to be the ones protecting lovers or bringing luck to people looking for love. Of course I got my lucky charms.
There is also a fountain from which you can drink from and it is supposed to have therapeutic properties.

 

After that it was time for lunchtime so I looked for a restaurant. As I managed to saw a dish I liked and that I could pronounce (thanks to easy kanjis). In fact, in Japan, outside of most restaurant window, the dishes they offer is remade in fake materials ( think it's resin) so you can see what they have to offer). Very nice.

Batteries recharged, I walked Sannei-zaka and Ninen-zaka, which are small paved streets lined with old houses full of knick-knack.

 

I reached my highlight of the day: Kodai-ji. The ground host a traditional garden designed by Kobori Enshu and tea houses. I loved walking around to the sounds of the wind in the bamboos, smelling the old wood and looking at beautiful architecture. Happy.

 

After looking earlier for a street called Ishebei-koji, recommended by my guide book I finally found it. And I wasn't disappointed. The book called it the most beautiful street in Kyoto and, even though, I wouldn't go to that extend, I thought it was the most charming street I've seen. Again cobbled tiny streets with lots of traditional ryokan. Each entrance of the ryokan are extremely well presented with a mixture of dark wood, always in lines, perpendicular, horizontal; stones thoughtfully positioned and little ornaments to bring, what I think, is good luck. I nearly died of an overdose of Japanese esthetics.

Still heading north, I arrived at Yasaka-jinja, the guardian shrine of Gion, is colorful but nothing much more.

 A bit disappointed I stopped for a macha ice cream, with a macha power sprinkle on top. Yummy! Then headed to Chion-in temple via a bit of Maruyama Park. Thanks god I had my ice cream because the stairs to reach the temple were pretty steep and then the temple was in renovation so there was nothing much to see. Argh! (photo below is of one of the entrance gate)

Anyway, I made my way back west to Gion, a big disappointment. I imagined little cobbled streets with old houses and silence. instead it's just like any other red-light district. Yes quiet, but otherwise pretty ugly. Maybe at night the grey of the building becomes covered of lights but really I don't see the point. And no I didn't see any geishas.

A frustrated me then crossed the bridge west and walked up north to Pontocho dori. And there was what I imagined Gion would be. Very narrow street with lots of restaurants, theaters, old houses...
Well worth it.

Afterwards I decided to walk back home via a department store to get my dinner: a big salad (luxury in Japan) and some rice. Walking via side streets to the ryokan, I started to feel like Kyoto is becoming more mine. Nice feeling but my feet are demanding that tomorrow I'll give them a break so I'll probably have to take the tube to my destination: North Higashiyama. Will my brain get an indigestion of temples/shrines? Will my legs transform in 2 pieces of wood?

to be continued...
P.S. as always, more photos on flickr.